Lava Beds National Monument: The Modoc War

The Modoc War occurred in the area that would become Lava Beds National Monument from July 1872 through the late spring of 1873. Today, visitors can see several preserved areas that mark significant events during that time.

The Modoc Tribe historically lived in northern California. They were forced onto a reservation in Oregon to be shared with their historical enemies, the Klamath Tribe. Ultimately, they left Oregon and returned to their homeland south of Tule Lake.

The Modoc Warriors and Captain Jack refused to return to the reservation. They entrenched themselves amongst the jagged lava beds, which served as a natural fortress. Today, you can hike Captain Jack’s Stronghold Trail, which is two different self-guided interpretive trails that weave through the trenches of the Modoc Stronghold.

Down the road is Hospital Rock, one of the sites the Army attacked. It is visible from high points within the Stronghold. It would take five months to remove the Modoc from the entrenchment.

Thomas-Wright Battlefield

Thomas-Wright Battlefield is located within Lava Beds National Monument. The battle happened on April 26, 1873, after the Modoc were forced to flee their stronghold. Modoc Warriors ambushed officers Thomas and Wright and their men from higher ground. The soldiers were prepared for the attack.

A soldier not involved in the battle described it: “At the first fire, the troops were so demoralized that the offices could do nothing with them. Wright was severely wounded … and his company, with one or two exceptions, deserted him and fled like a pack of sheep; then the slaughter began.”

Modoc Chief Scarface Charley showed mercy on the remaining living soldiers. It’s widely said he stopped the slaughter and told the soldiers something to the effect of “We’ve killed enough of you. Now go home.” Or “All you fellows that ain’t dead had better go home. We don’t want to kill you all in one day.” This would be the last victory for the Modoc.

It’s a 2.2-mile roundtrip hike to where the fight took place. There is no shade along this trail; it can be unbearably hot during the summer.

General Canby was killed during the Modoc War in Lava Beds National Monument

Canby’s Cross is a park monument. The large white cross marks the spot where General Edward Canby was killed on April 11th, 1873, by Modoc Chief Kintpuash, also known as Captain Jack. Canby and two came to the Modoc stronghold under a flag of truce. They were hoping to negotiate a peaceful end to the conflict. Canby was warned prior that the Modoc and the situation were volatile and that we would be in danger. He replied, “I believe you are right … I shall regard your advice, but it would not be very well for the general in command to be afraid to go where the peace commissioners would venture.” It’s a short walk to the cross.

Canby was the highest-ranking Army officer and one of the only generals ever killed by Native Americans. On October 3, 1873, Captain Jack and three other Modoc leaders were hanged for the murder.

Where is Lava Beds National Monument located?

Lava Beds National Monument is in rural northeastern California, in Siskiyou and Modoc counties. It’s not close to any major metropolitan area. Sacramento is a 5 hour drive away.

How long does it take to visit?

You can spend as little as a couple of hours exploring the monument or a few days. Either way, you won’t see it all—there is so much to see! There are dozens of lava caves open to the public.