Robert Treman State Park: A scenic gem in the Finger Lakes
We arrived at the trailhead for the Gorge and Rim Trail Loop in New York’s Robert H. Treman State Park just after dawn on a Sunday in the middle of summer. My wife and I had spent the night camping in the park and were excited to hike what we’d heard was one of the best waterfall hikes in the Finger Lakes and even New York.
The parking lot was large—it could easily accommodate a hundred cars—but that morning, we were the only car there. Near the parking lot is a great swimming hole right at the base of Lower Falls, and the parking lot is likely to accommodate its popularity.
We were not swimming that day, though. We were going to head up the Gorge Trail, cross Enfield Creek then loop back down the Rim Trail. The “Gorge and Rim” trail setup is very common when hiking in the Finger Lakes region. Nearby Watkins Glen, Buttermilk Falls, and Taughannock Falls State Parks all have their own Gorge and Rim Trails as well. They are all also awesome hikes.
Hiking the Robert Treman Gorge and Rim Loop
We made some coffee and breakfast on the tailgate while packing up for our hike. The loop in Robert H. Treman is the longest of the area’s waterfall hikes, at 4.2 miles and about 750 feet of elevation gain. It was a beautiful morning, with deep blue skies and some high-above wispy clouds here and there. The trail starts out of the gate with a fairly steep forested incline, but at least it was very well maintained.
Enfield Glen
After walking along the ridge for a short distance, the trail descends into the gorge called Enfield Glen. It was only a short time before we saw the first of 12 waterfalls along this trail. From here, the trail hugs the edge of Enfield Creek, where it gets incredibly scenic.
CCC Stonework
Many parts of the Gorge Trail are stone paths and stairs lined with stunning rock walls. The trail and stone walls along the gorge were built by Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) workers between 1933 and 1942. During the Great Depression, a large CCC camp was located near the park.
As we followed the path through the gorge, we passed waterfalls. Most were not massive, averaging about 10 to 15 feet. However, they were all very scenic. Next, a stone bridge crossed the creek, but this was not the end of the hike, and we continued on.
Lucifer Falls
Soon, we came to the largest waterfall along the trail, Lucifer Falls, which is 115 feet tall and breathtaking. There had been amazing views along the trail so far, but this was by far our favorite. Lucifer Falls starts at a relatively narrow point in the creek before fanning out down the rocky face of the glen. The path is built next to a sheer rock cliff and offers tremendous views as you pass by the falls. Then, you have to climb a rock staircase next to the falls as you head past it.
We crossed Enfield Creek near an Old mill and the Upper Park entrance parking lot a short distance after Lucifer Falls. From here, we turned around to loop back down the Rim Trail.
Looping back along the Rim Trail
For the most part, the Rim Trail is easier than the Gorge Trail. You’ve climbed up through the gorge, and most of the elevation gain is done. It’s more of a forested hike on the return, but there are a few wonderful viewpoints and things to note along the way.
The first is a short distance after turning onto the trail. You come to a clearing with a killer view of Lucifer Falls and the Gorge Trail running next to it. We stopped here for a break to enjoy the view. It was a completely different perspective looking from above across the glen at the waterfall below.
Cliff Staircase
Next came the “Cliff Staircase.” It does not take long to understand why it got its name. The rock stairs are incredibly steep switchbacks on the edge of the gorge. It’s a place to take your time and be steady like a mountain goat.
After carefully descending the Cliff Staircase, the trail retreats into the forest. We were lucky to see a few white-tailed deer, including a big buck, through this portion. After walking about a mile or so, it opened up again, and we got a great view of Lower Fall in the gorge below. I completely understand why it’s a popular swimming hole. It looked awesome.
After that, we were back in the parking lot in no time. To my surprise, the parking lot was about a quarter full now. We did not see anyone on the Gorge Trail, and only a few couples returned on the Rim Trail. Needless to say, if you plan on doing this hike, start early.
The entire hike took us about two and a half hours and was very worth it. This was as pretty as the more famous hike in Watkins Glen State Park but with a small fraction of the people. We cannot recommend Robert H. Treman’s Gorge and Rim Loop enough!
