Swallow Falls State Park: Chasing the ghosts of the vagabonds

Swallow Falls State Park is located in far western Maryland along the banks of the Youghiogheny River. The off-the-beaten-path park offers incredible outdoor recreation, including camping, fishing, and hiking.  The Swallow Falls Canyon Trail is a favorite amongst visitors.  I know it was for me. The mile-and-quarter loop meanders by some of the most breathtaking scenery in Maryland. 

Hiking in Swallow Falls State Park

I hiked the Swallow Falls Canyon Trail in early October, just before the fall foliage peaked.  I got to the trailhead early. To my surprise, I was the only car in the parking lot. I’d heard from a friend this hike was beautiful, but was not too familiar with it. After a quick peanut butter and jelly for breakfast, I loaded up my daypack and took off towards the trailhead.  

A sign warned I was in black bear country, I would not see any bears that day, however. I looked over the map and saw about half the trail ran directly next to the Youghiogheny River,  or Yough as it is colloquially known. Pronounced “Yawk,” it’s a peculiar river. In fact, Youghiogheny is a Native American word meaning “a stream flowing in a contrary direction.” The Yough flows north for more than 130 miles before joining the Monongahela River just south of Pittsburgh. 

Tolliver Falls at Swallow Falls State Park

As I studied the map, I was delighted to see I would pass by at least four named waterfalls.  There had been recent hard rains, so I hoped the waterfalls would flow well. I decided to go counterclockwise; my first destination was Tolliver Falls. It is the smallest and least known of the waterfalls in the park, but it certainly did not disappoint. The falls are not on the Youngh but rather on a stream called Tolliver Run, hence its smaller size.  I had to take a short spur trail to the falls, but it was worth it. Tolliver Falls is small, 5 or 6 feet tall, but what it lacks in height, it makes up in beauty. I got lucky; recent downpours paid off, and the falls were flowing nicely when I arrived. After the rushing white cascade finished, the water seemingly stopped and pooled at the base of the falls, then slowly poured downstream. I sat down on the rock steps near the falls and took it all in for a second, enjoying the sound of the falls and watching squirrels and songbirds dance about. 

Upper and Lower Swallow Falls

After my brief break, I headed down the trail towards Upper and Lower Swallow Falls. Both waterfalls were raging.  I was struck by how fast and loud the falls were, but a couple of hundred yards downstream, the river was tranquil and flowing slowly.  After passing Lower Falls, the trail curves towards what is a highlight for many people, myself included.  

Muddy Creek Falls at Swallow Falls State Park

Muddy Creek Falls was impressive, to say the least. I could hear the large waterfall well before I  ever set eyes. The falls are 53 feet high and were raging as I approached. I snapped a few photos from near the base while I stood there and took it in.  Muddy Creek Falls is one of the tallest in Maryland and certainly one of the most scenic. I walked up some steps towards an overlook—an equally impressive view. After snapping some more pictures, I decided it was time to return to the car.  

Youghiogheny Grove &  Maryland’s only old-growth forest

I saw two signs within earshot of the falls and nearly within view. The first, a brown-painted wooden sign, read, “Youghiogheny Grove: This 37-acre area of virgin hemlock and white pine has trees estimated to be 300+ years old and is the last stand of its kind in Maryland…” “That’s awesome,” I thought. Then it was bittersweet as hiking through a towering old-growth forest is always fun; it was a bit sad to know this was the only one left in Maryland. 

They called themselves “The Vagabonds.”

The next sign was a white Maryland Historical Society marker with CAMPSITE in bolded all-caps letters at the top. “In August 1918, and again in July 1921, Henry Ford, Thomas A. Edison, Harvey Firestone, John Burroughs, and company encamped here by Muddy Creek Falls.”

I’ll admit it: at that moment, the forever history nerd in me met with my nature lover side and became best friends.  I skirted off back to the trailhead amongst giant trees filled with a historical tidbit that piqued a fierce interest. I had a little cell service from the parking lot and could research and read about these industrial Titans camping trips as I sat in my truck, oddly proud of my Firestone tires. 

They called themselves the Four Vagabonds. Each year from 1915 to 1924, Ford, Edison, Harvey Firestone, and Burroughs would venture out for a camping trip. The idea started when Ford and Burroughs visited Edison in Florida and explored the Everglades. Ford and Edison both owned winter estates in Fort Myers. To this day, you can take an awesome tour of their homes and grounds.  They would camp at present-day Swallow Falls State Park in 1918 and then again from July 27 to July 31 in 1921.

“Every man in his heart revolts at civilization and will revert back to [nature] if given half a chance…We don’t live long enough to find out what life is all about, but we know what civilization is – it is a mere veneer that keeps on getting thicker, but never too thick to pierce…It will be 15,000 years I think, before man will reach such a high point of civilization where he cannot and will not want to go back to [reconnect with nature].” – Thomas Edison at Muddy Creek Falls, Maryland. July 1921

Camping at Swallow Falls State Park

That was so cool! I was not planning on camping at the park that night, but that changed in a hurry. I packed up, headed to the campground, and found a site with no problems. In fact, there were only a few other sites taken. I reasoned it was mid-week, and school had started.  My site was wooded, private, and had the essentials such as a picnic table and a fire ring. The sites can be reserved in advance.  From speaking with a few other campers, I got the impression that the 65-site campground, while a bit out there, often fills up during the busier summer months.   

After starting a fire, fixing a mug of hot chocolate, and enjoying the finest of Campbell’s soups for dinner, I felt content. As I sat watching the flames flicker, I could not help but wonder what the Vagabonds talked about under the same sky more than 100 years ago. Titans of industry that changed the world enjoying one of the world’s simplest pleasures, a conversation amongst friends by the campfire light. I sat there imagining the conversation. “Harvey, the tires continually improve for the Model T,” Ford exclaimed.  “Yes, but what’s next?  We need a domestic source for rubber.” Firestone countered. “Of course we do,” barked Edison. “At my home in Florida, I am conducting tests to see if it can be grown here.”  “Gentlemen… gentlemen, are we not missing the delight of the evening?” Bemoaned an elderly Burroughs. “On this cool, clear fall evening… perhaps we should focus on ‘How beautiful the leaves grow old. How full of light and color are their last days.’”