The Horse You Came In On: Poe’s Last Stop at the oldest bar in the USA
The Horse You Came In On Saloon is a historic bar in Baltimore’s Fells Point District. A visit to the Charm City would not be complete without sipping a cocktail or beer in this storied watering hold.
One summer evening spent exploring Baltimore’s eats and drinks, that’s exactly what I did. That night, my wife and I decided to take in some nightlife. Earlier in the day, while touring Poe’s grave and the Poe House, I’d spoken with some other folks who were in the area ticking off Poe sites in the city. One person I met was Elmira, yes, like Poe’s fiance. I do not know if she was pulling my leg, but her black t-shirt with a raven on it certainly made her feel trustworthy. “Make sure you hit ‘The Horse,’” she said. I question, “The horse? What are you talking about?” “It’s a bar nearby. They pour a stiff drink, have live music, and Poe’s last stop before he died. Also, the food is pretty good,” she added. I asked her how to get there, and she simply said, “Head over to Fells Point, follow Thames Street until you see some tipsy people, and hear music inside.”
Visiting The Horse You Came In On Saloon
Being an avid Edgar Allen Poe fan, this was a must-stop. After hitting our hotel to freshen up for an evening on the town, we hopped in an Uber later afternoon road towards “The Horse,” as its colloquially known. As we got close, traffic was at a standstill. I told the driver not to worry about it; we just walked from there. Thames Street was bustling. There were people everywhere, shopping, drinking, and carrying on. Grabbing the wife’s hand, we followed the cobblestone street towards the bar, ready for a drink and a snack.
Entering “The Horse”
“ID’s, please. There is a $10 cover tonight.” said the doorman, who looked like he recently played on the Raven’s offensive line. “No problem, here you go,” I responded. “Have a good time” he said, opening the thick wooden doors with a nailed-on picture advertising “Poes Last Stop”. Immediately, we were blasted with tonight’s cover band urging us to “Save a Horse and Ride a Cowboy.”
At 4:30 in the afternoon, I was surprised by how busy it was. The first bar on the left when we walked in was standing room only. We passed it and the bar, sitting at the less crowded second bar in the back. I hopped on the weirdly comfortable staddle-shaped bar stools. “I’ll take a local IPA; what do you want?” I said to my wife. “I’ll have a Maryland Mule, please.” That was their take on a Moscow Mule. Basically, just pinch-hit rye whiskey for vodka. It’s a nod to Maryland historically producing rye whiskey.
Our drinks came fast and went down nearly as fast. Normally not one to guzzle, the energy of The Horse made it too easy to do without noticing. Taking it all in and people-watching. I picked up a piece of paper that told the story of the place.
The Horse You Came in On Saloon’s History
The Horse You Came in On Saloon claims to be the oldest continually operating saloon in the country, proudly bragging about being the only bar in Maryland to exist before, during, and after prohibition. Albeit, only sometimes with the same name. During prohibition, Maryland, and especially Baltimore, had a reputation for looking the other way when it came to booze, earning the distinction as a place where you could still get a drink. In fact, on the way to the bar, we passed a faded but still visible message urging Baltimorians to “Vote Against Prohibition.”
Checking out the bar
After another round, we ordered food. I ordered the pit beef sandwich, and the wife had crab cakes. Eat like the locals, right? Nothing says Maryland like pit beef and crab cakes. While waiting for the food, I jumped out of my saddle and decided to mosey around the bar looking at the decorated walls. One sign pointing up urged a “Home for wayward girls one flight up.” Other smartass quotes adorned the walls. “Eat, drink and re-marry.” The “Beer-N-Bullshit Area” was apparently the front bar. A t-shirt hanging on the wall counseled tipsy patrons… likely truthfully… Horse You Came in On Saloon “Where No One’s Ugly at 2 A.M.” I could not help but chuckle at the saying, feeling a little merry myself at this point, I bet that happens every single night here.
Edgar Allen Poe’s Last Stop
Continuing to walk around, I came to a portrait of Edgar Allan Poe. Hanging below it, this Poe prose superimposed over the outline of a raven.
“Filled with mingled cream and amber
I will drain that glass again
Such hilarious vision clamber
Through the chambers of my brain
Quantest thoughts
Queerest fancies
Come to life and fade away
Who cares how time advances
I am drinking ale today”
This bar is thought to have been a favorite of Poe’s to grab a drink during his time in Baltimore. It’s advertised as the last place Poe drank before being found in delirium. He would die four days later, on October 3, 1849. It’s never proven if the last drink story is true; however, I choose to believe it.
Dining at the Horse
I got back in the saddle once the food arrived. “Pit Beef!” I said excitedly to my wife. Pit Beef is a Baltimore delicacy. Roast beef served on the rare side on a Kaiser roll with onions and horseradish. It’s right up my alley, for sure. It was excellent, and so were the crab cakes, which were made with Chesapeake Bay blue crab and Old Bay seasoning. After eating like a horse, we decided we best giddy up on our way. We’d been there for two and a half hours, and the bar was off to the races. We popped outside and galloped down the cobblestone street to the next adventure.
