The legend of Rainbow Falls in Hawaii’s Wailuku River State Park.
Rainbow Falls is an incredible place to visit on Hawaii’s Big Island. It is located just minutes from downtown Hilo in Wailuka River State Park. The 80-foot waterfall tumbles over a lava cave and is a must-see and very easy for anyone to visit.
I arrived just after noon on a weekend day in mid-winter. As I drove there, I was surprised at how close it was to my hotel in Hilo—maybe a 15-minute drive. When I pulled into the parking lot, it was about half full, with one tour bus loading up and another waiting just behind to drop off.
Hopping out of the car, I walked to the falls overlook. This is an easy walk and appropriate for all ages and abilities. I was not alone, but it was not crowded by any means. There appeared to be tourists from all over the world visiting. I could clearly make out French and Spanish, but many other languages were spoken as I approached the falls.
The native Hawaiian language Rainbow Falls is known as “Waiānuenue,” which translates to “rainbow water.” On clear sunny days, especially in the morning, you can often see a rainbow at the falls. No such luck for me, as the weather was cool and moody, with big dark clouds rolling across the sky.
The waterfall is genuinely stunning, so it’s easy to understand why Rainbow Falls is such a popular stop in Hilo. While beautiful, it also has a wonderfully interesting legend, or Mo’olelo in Hawaiian.
The Legend of Rainbow Falls
The story tells the events of the “The Battle of the Wailuku River” and how these places received their names.
Many years ago, Hina, the goddess of the moon and mother of the demi-god Maui, lived in the cave behind Rainbow Falls on the Wailuku River. A mo’o or giant lizard named Kuna lived along the river banks. Kuna often tried to torment Hina by sending logs and other debris over the falls. Hina feared not, however, because she was protected by the cave and her powerful son Maui.
Then, one night, during a particularly fierce downpour, Kuna used the thunderous storm to his advantage. While Hina slept, he pushed a massive boulder just below the cave that blocked the river, causing Hina’s cave to flood. With the water rapidly rising, she called out for her son.
O Maui, fisher of islands
O Maui, slower of sun,
Listen! It is Hina who calls.
Come quickly, O Maui my son.
Come in your swift canoe.
Come with your mighty war club.
Save us from Kuna Mo’o.
It’s said Maui heard his mother’s cries while he slumbered. Awakened, he looked in the night sky towards Hawai’i and saw his Hina’s bright cloud. From the steep slopes of Haleakalā on the Island of Maui, he raced towards his canoe and began feverishly paddling towards Hilo.
Maui arrived at a dry Wailuku River and knew it had to be dammed. Arriving at the boulder, he struck the riverbed with his mighty club, creating a channel for the river to flow to the ocean. His mother was safe, and Maui chased the retreating Kuna, who dove into the pools just below the Boiling Pots overlook.
Frustrated that he couldn’t get vengeance on Kuna, Maui called upon Pele, the Hawaiian goddess of volcanoes. Pele responded quickly, providing him with stones to throw in the river. Soon the water temperature was boiling hot, and Kuna was forced to flee downstream.
At the crest of Rainbow Falls, Maui and the giant lizard Kuna fought, with Maui striking him with his club. Kuna would tumble over the falls to spend eternity as a rock at its base. Forever getting pummeled by stones, logs, and other debris while being flooded, just as he had tried to drown Hina.
The pools above the falls, known as boiling pots, still bubble to this day and serve as a reminder of the the battle of Maui and Kuna.
The park is open daily from 8:30 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. On my visit, I spent about 45 minutes there but was not in a hurry. You can spend as little as 15 minutes there, or you can explore the surrounding area and go hiking. Regardless, a trip to Rainbow Falls is sure to please with a wonderful view and colorful history.
